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Celestial Mountains Expedition


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An expedition to Climb Chapyev Peak 6300m (Victory Peak) succesfully summited in the Tian Shan (Celestial Mountains). Expedition lead by Zack Paulton.

The mountains in this remote area of Asia are Himalayan in stature, with the highest peak reaching 7443m. They form the rigid backbone of Kyrgyzstan, wedged between China and Kazakhstan.

The  exhilarating journey to Base Camp was initially taken by helicopter up the Inylchek Glacier. At close proximity, I flew through a vast panorama of classical glaciated and jagged peaks. The initial period of acclimatisation was spent practising glacial skills, overlooked by the most northerly 7000m peaks in the world.

At 6300m, Peak Chapayev remained my main objective and I shared our route with those attempting to summit the majestic Khan Tengri. The ascent involved establishing two camps en route, but the approach was richly rewarded with a vista of tremendous proportions. With my ambition achieved, I gazed across to the jewel of the Tien Shan itself, Khan Tengri. Its elegant ridges and pyramidal peak elevates its beauty to that of the distinguished profiles of Ama Dablam and the Matterhorn.